I don't need this: Review of The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% and The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG

Yes, I just wrote a post about over-consumption in skincare, and now I'm reviewing a couple of products from one of the trendiest brands of the moment. But this is also a post about not trying to use things you I should know won't work for you me. Maybe you can learn from my mistakes, since I obviously can't.

The first of the two products I'm reviewing here is The Ordinary's Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%. Emi from Project Swatch kindly gave me her tube when I expressed interest after her review, in which she found she didn't like using it because of the grittiness. For some reason I wanted to test my mettle against the unappealing texture, since I can usually stand weird products so long as I use them at night. I won't go into all of the technical details of how this product is supposed to work, but I will direct you to this excellent and thorough review of 27 products from The Ordinary. You can also read about them on Deciem's website (the company that makes The Ordinary), but I will point out that that they often make little attempt to provide really accessible information--and in fact, I think this is part of their marketing plan. Is there a word like "greenwashing" for marketing that presents everything in a very technical, scientific way, to make it sound more advanced and unique? I mean look at the product names. Broken down to basics, maybe, but hardly ordinary.

In general, vitamin C is supposed to "brighten" by fading extra pigmentation, and to prevent or repair sun damage. Here's a great explanation of antioxidant effects from Lab Muffin (still sciency, but a much better presentation than Deciem's). And here's where I went wrong. How many products do I own that claim to "brighten" skin? I don't even want to count. How many times have I actually noticed a difference in my skin as a result of using a brightening product? Rarely-to-never. I don't have hyper-pigmentation or dark spots or the usual things that brightening products are meant to brighten. And so while I don't think that it was completely useless to use this particular product, because I probably got some invisible preventative effects from the antioxidants, I didn't see any noticeable improvements in my skin while using it. That doesn't mean that it doesn't work or that you won't love it! It means I didn't need it, because I already use other good antioxidant products.

Left: Review of The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%; Right: The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG

I can tell you something about my experience of applying the Vitamin C Suspension, however, since it is an unusual product. You can read on the product page about why it feels the way it does, but I would describe the texture as feeling like a small amount of baking soda mixed into a lotion. Deciem says that it "tingles," but I would describe the sensation as more of a mild burning. I don't recommend using this stuff if you have any broken skin on your face, like a recently scabbed-over zit, because it will sting like fuck. As I hoped, the texture doesn't bother me too much. I apply a thin layer and leave it for 15-20 minutes, and then lightly apply moisturizer on top. By the time I add the moisturizer, most of the grittiness has gone away, but I still prefer to add another layer, because it's quite greasy. In fact, I can still feel the oiliness on my hands even after washing them with soap. With a more pleasant moisturizer over it, however, it feels ok while I sleep, and it washes off easily in the morning. The product itself doesn't have any fragrance when I apply it, but by morning my face smells like it has fake tanner on it, which is interesting. That smell washes off with the product. Also, if you happen to get any of it on your lips, it has a very sour taste.

My story with the Caffeine Solution is similar. I purchased this stuff myself from Well.ca ($10 off with code brutallyhonestbeauty), and had it shipped to my sister in Canada along with a few other products from The Ordinary. I'd read a few brief reviews from people who said it really helped with their dark circles, but apparently I didn't pay close attention, or I would have known it wasn't likely to help me. It works by constricting blood vessels to reduce puffiness and it also reduces dark pigmentation under the eyes. My dark circles are not caused by either of those things--instead, the skin under my eyes is translucent, which makes it look purple-blue. (You can see what I mean here.) In addition, quite the opposite of puffy, my undereye area is somewhat sunken (you can see here). So in fact, I would benefit more from increased puffiness and pigment, not the opposite!

But I tried the serum anyway for about a week, since I had it, after all. I was curious. It didn't improve my dark circles, as I should have expected. I don't know if it made the sunken, shriveled skin under my eyes worse, but it certainly didn't help. Let me advise you to READ THE FUCKING PRODUCT DESCRIPTION BEFORE YOU BUY SOMETHING. Honestly, I don't think there are any products other than concealer out there that can help my ghoulish blue circles, though I'm trying some eye patches to see if they will plump up the skin temporarily (recommended by Mimi from Makeup Withdrawal).

The texture of the Caffeine Solution is lovely, by the way, in case it's the kind of thing that might be of use to you. It's a thin serum that absorbs quickly. The bottle ought to last forever, because you'll only need a drop max for each eye.

I need to stop using things simply because I'm intrigued by reviews, and think carefully about what will actually benefit my skin. I do that most of the time, but my curiosity got the better of me this time. The Ordinary is an interesting line of products, and I have a few more to test out in the coming months. It's a cheap way to try fairly basic formulations and ingredients and to rule out what doesn't work for you (I guess I've accomplished that), which can be difficult to do with more complex, often more expensive, products. I haven't done a price-per-ounce analysis here, and I might attempt one in the future, though I'm not sure exactly what would be best to compare these types of products to. Suggestions?

Have any of you have good luck with skincare from The Ordinary?

(I really would like to get up to two posts a week, instead of just one, but I haven't quite got the hang of my new schedule. Working on it!)

Do you like skincare in your makeup? Maybelline SuperStay Better Skin Foundation in Porcelain: Review and Swatches

Disclosure: Affiliate links.
I really didn't have high hopes for a random new drugstore foundation sent to me for free from Influenster. I'm at somewhere around a 10% success rate for foundation even when I pick it out myself after doing research. Plus I have that apparently elusive neutral and very pale skin tone that means most "Porcelain" or "Ivory" shades are too cool or too warm. Shockingly, I ended up really liking the Maybelline SuperStay Better Skin Foundation that showed up on my doorstep recently - in Porcelain, of course, which seems to be the lightest option.

(Note: Anyone can sign up for Influenster and get free stuff to test. It's not a blogger thing, though I think the more followers you have on social media, the better. I usually get one or two things from them a year.)

This foundation's schtick is that it contains vitamin C, so it's supposed improve your skin over time. It claims to "reduce the appearance of spots, dullness, and unevenness." Yes, any foundation should do that. That's the point. Note that they don't say it will make your skin look that way without the makeup on top of it. Oh, the joys of marketing copy. So tricky.

There are different forms of Vitamin C used in skincare, which have different properties, and some are more effective than others. The Better Skin foundation contains Actyl-C, which is a type of vitamin C patented by L'Oreal. It's 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, if that means anything to you. According to The Beauty Brains, not much has been published on it, but it can lighten dark spots.

Maybelline challenged people to use this for 3 weeks and report back. I used it for 3 weeks at the frequency that I normally wear foundation, i.e. once or twice a week. I didn't notice any improvement in my skin during that time. Would I have noticed results if I had worn it more often? That seems unlikely, since, as Beautypedia points out in their review, vitamin C has to be kept away from light to remain stable, and this is packaged in a clear bottle. It does contain SPF 15 in the form of titanium dioxide, so if you normally don't wear sunscreen at all (the horror!), then you might notice some "brightening" after using this foundation regularly as it protects your skin from tanning. I always use a separate sunscreen, so SPF in my foundation is just whatever. It can't hurt to have skincare ingredients in makeup, for the most part, but if you really want to treat issues you're having, you're better off using dedicated skincare products to do it, rather than expecting miracles from your makeup.

I don't really buy foundation hoping that it magically transforms my skin over time. I just want it to do its job. And this foundation does its job.

Porcelain is a pretty good match for me. It is just on the cool side of neutral, but close enough that when I blend it out, it looks right on me. It's very pale, and so it will probably suit me better in the winter. Despite my best efforts to wear sunscreen constantly, my face does darken slightly in the summer. You can see Better Skin compared to Maybelline Fit Me foundation stick, also in Porcelain, in the swatches below. The paleness of the two is comparable, but next to the Fit Me stick, the Better Skin foundation looks positively yellow. If I had a warmer foundation to swatch next to it, like Tarte Amazonian Clay in Fair Sand, I bet it would look relatively pink. Just guessing. You can compare the Fit Me stick to some other foundation in this previous post of mine, and maybe get a sense of how this one relates that way. As I've said before, the Fit Me stick looks almost perfect on the inside of my arm, but compared to my face and neck, it's way too cool. Swatching foundation on my arms is clearly not the best way to find my match.

Swatches of Maybelline Fit Me stick foundation in Porcelain and Maybelline Superstay Better Skin foundation in Porcelain

The first time I tested this foundation, I applied it with my fingers. I didn't like the results much at all. It looked too heavy and mask-like, not like natural skin. It has a matte finish that looks velvety when applied in a substantial layer. If full-coverage, matte foundation, you can certainly get those results easily with this Better Skin stuff by applying it with your fingers or a brush. You probably won't need to add concealer. It does feel a bit heavy on your skin this way, I found. I was paranoid that it would smear or transfer - I could just always feel it. But even applied at full strength, it doesn't settle into pores or emphasize lines, which is important to me.

I really prefer medium coverage and a more satin finish. In the past, I've tried using a damp Beauty Blender to sheer out full coverage foundations, like Revlon Colorstay, without much luck. A damp sponge works impressively well with Better Skin, though. I ended up with a medium coverage, semi-matte effect, which is just what I wanted. It does require some concealer in places, or you can build up layers where you need extra coverage. But it doesn't hide my freckles, for example, which I think makes it look much more natural. Sheered out, the foundation felt comfortable and light, and, again, didn't emphasize pores or lines. It can highlight flakiness a bit, so it's a good idea to moisturize well before using it. It worked well with or without primer. I posted a photo of my face with this foundation on it on Instagram, but it's not great quality, so I won't reproduce it here. But it's there for you if you want it.

Applied with my Beauty Blender, the Better Skin foundation set well and didn't necessarily require powder, though I prefer to add some finishing powder. As for the "SuperStay" part of the name: I wouldn't classify this as a long-wearing foundation. It's average. Personally, I'm okay with that, because I would much rather have something that begins to fade after 5-6 hours, but also doesn't turn into a mess when it wears off, than something that lasts 8 hours and looks like shit by the end. This foundation just sort of disappears slowly and evenly. It doesn't get all crusty or goopy or blotchy like a lot of others I've used. Obviously you can extend the wear with the usual tricks, like primer and setting with powder, etc., if that's your style.

I think this would be best for normal to oily skin, since it is very matte and feels a little drying during the first hour or so after applying it (another good reason to moisturize beforehand). If you have dry skin, it might be uncomfortable, and as I said, it may highlight flakiness (though I have used foundations that were much, much worse in that respect; it's not a serious issue here).

Overall, this is a pretty impressive foundation. I am picky, and I've been trying to find a decent foundation for a while now. I feel satisfied with this stuff that I didn't even pick out myself. That's kind of amazing. So even though it actually doesn't really succeed in the two things you would expect from its name (long-wearing and skincare), I'd actually recommend SuperStay Better Skin foundation, anyway, if you're looking for the same things in a foundation that I am.

Have you discovered any decent foundations lately?

A bunch of Paula's Choice reviews

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.
I've been very lucky during the past few months of my unemployment that I was able to keep using my regular Paula's Choice routine, even though the products are not particularly cheap. That's because lots of people signed up through my invite link, and I really, really appreciate that. As a result, I've been able to replace the things I was already using when they ran out, as well as try a few new things. In return, I figured I should at least review some of the Paula's Choice (PC hereafter) products I've used. (I'm also hoping to do a PC giveaway sometime in the future as further thanks, but that will have to wait until I can swing the shipping costs.)

This week also seems like a good time for this post, since PC has a 15% off everything + free shipping on all orders sale going on (use code EDDVIPJUL14).

I've been using a few PC products for almost a decade now. I found out about Paula Begoun via a Canadian TV show called The Shopping Bags, which was almost like a shopping/consumer review blog in TV format, before there were blogs (it's still on TV somewhere in Canada, I think).  Paula was one of their regular consultants on makeup, skin, and hair care. I even owned one of her enormous books at one point. At the time, there weren't really many other sources of the kinds of information she provides, especially in terms of evaluating the marketing claims made by cosmetics companies. Now there are more options, but I still use the ingredients dictionary on the PC website all the time, because it's really comprehensive and easy to use.

Paula herself is a bit of a polarizing figure. She can be a little dogmatic and extreme at times. For instance, she used to insist that no one, no matter who they were, should ever wear any color of eye makeup other than neutrals and maybe, if you wanted to get a little crazy, plum. No shimmer, either. I get that it was a reaction against the frosty blue eyeshadows of the 80s, but come on (she's slackened only slightly on that point since then). There's more to life than matte neutrals. Because she was one of the first to do what she does, she can come across as a bit self important, too. In one of her radio shows from this year, she complained that she's seen other people online repeating information about cosmetics that originated with her. Well, do you want to inform people, or not?

These days, I'm a little more critical about the PC proclamations. I don't like fragrance in my skin care either, and I'd rather err on the side of caution for ingredients that cause irritation, but I think the their NO FRAGRANCE EVER OH MY GOD YOU'RE GOING TO BECOME A HAG IF YOU USE SOMETHING SMELLY stance is a bit much. Give me all the scented body lotion and lip balm! I also don't rely heavily on Beautypedia's ratings of makeup, because they often hinge on one or two details that have little to do with the actual performance of the product (I'll write something more about that another day). Today, PC/Beautypedia is one of many sources of information I consult.

All that said, I have had really, really good luck with the majority of the PC brand products I've tried. I get that they are trying to sell me shit just like every other company, but I appreciate their accessibility and transparency about why they formulated things the way they did and why they think the ingredients will be effective. That's still pretty rare. It's a brand I personally like, even though it's not the cheapest. They do have a lot of sales, at least.

Below are reviews of several PC products I've used, and I've indicated roughly how long I've been using them, in case that's useful information. I didn't bother to take photos of the packages, because I didn't think that would be particularly helpful (and a little too advertorial for a post like this). So this is a text heavy post. You might want to grab a cup of coffee before you read on (or spread it out over three days because, let's face it, after writing all that I'm going to need some time off). I'm not going to go into detail about the ingredients, because you can find all of that information at the links, so I won't repeat it here.

Moisturizers

Comparison of three Paula's Choice Moisturizers (left to right): Skin Balancing Moisture Gel, Hydralight Moisture Infusing Lotion, and Skin Recovery Replenishing Moisturizer 

Skin Balancing Moisture Gel: I've been using this stuff the longest of anything from PC: at least 8 years, maybe 10. I absolutely love it. It's an ideal moisturizer for oily/combination skin like mine. It's a really light gel that soaks in quickly and leaves absolutely no greasiness or shine. It feels really refreshing. I've described it as a "drink of water for your face" to my boyfriend (though he continues to use his generic Lubriderm knockoff).

The downside of this particular moisturizer is that it burns if I apply it anywhere near my eyes. It's annoying. I can see from reviews that this doesn't happen with most people who use it, but apparently there's something in it that my eyes hate. If I want to moisturize the eye area, I have to pick something else. This gel is my usual daytime moisturizer, nevertheless. I put it on when I get out of the shower and it leaves my skin soft and gets rid of whatever tightness was caused by the heat and water.

It's not cheap ($24), but I've continued using it because I haven't been able to find a comparable gel moisturizer at a more affordable price. The only ones I'd encountered until recently were more expensive, packaged in a jar, and/or highly fragranced. I came across this Simple brand gel moisturizer a few weeks ago, though, so I might try it when I run out of the PC. (Has anyone else used it?)