Showing posts with label the beauty brains. Show all posts
Showing posts with label the beauty brains. Show all posts

Sunday, November 22, 2015

Surly Sunday Screed: Pantene isn't crap

I got my hair cut recently and complained a little about it on Instagram. I tend to only get it cut a couple of times a year. I try for every 3-4 months, but I usually don't manage it. I put it off for a long time for a few reasons: it's expensive; I don't particularly enjoy making small talk with a stranger for an hour; I have to take my glasses off and, because my eyesight is so poor, that adds to the awkwardness; and I don't have a regular stylist now, so it's always a gamble trying to find someone new who will give you a cut you like. That means there's a lot riding on each salon visit. I went back to the salon I usually go to (though the stylist I used to see left a while back), which I like for two main reasons. First, they give a scalp massage before the cut, which can be amazing. Second, they don't pressure me too much to buy their products, which I can't afford. They usually tell me what they're using, and why, which is interesting, but that's it. And I have actually purchased some of the things they used in the past, but I can't swing it now, and I don't like the hard sell.

Well, this time the gamble did not pay off, and I could tell it was not going to be a great experience from the beginning. As soon as I sat down, she asked me what kind of shampoo and conditioner I use. Never a good sign. My hair is very dry in general -- and especially at that moment because I had been avoiding buying new products for a few months, and instead just using up some old shampoo I had on hand for my boyfriend that was not doing anything to help the dryness. I was also using some expensive, "natural" conditioner that was equally useless. So I mumbled some (drugstore) brand name, and she immediately launched into a lecture about why "grocery store" and "drugstore" products are terrible for your hair. You've heard it before. They deposit "wax" on your hair which builds up and makes it rough and dry (unlike the expensive "natural," "botanical" products she could sell me). She explained that the reason my hair doesn't take a curl is because I have all this gunk on it that won't allow styling products to penetrate the hair, because it's like having a plastic glove over my hair. (Do I want hairspray to penetrate my hair? That's not generally how it works.) Never mind that my hair has never curled well with heat, even when I was a child. The worst part was that she delivered this inept and misinformed lecture while giving me my scalp massage, so she was half-assing the massage, and I was simultaneously annoyed by the nonsense she was spouting.

I know there are worse things going on in the world right now. This ranks as an annoyance, not a disaster.

I don't entirely blame the hair stylist, because I know that this sort of thing is part of her training and part of her job. It's what she's been taught, and she believes what she's saying. "Pantene is horrible because it deposits silicone on your hair and it builds up and forms a film that weighs down your hair." Yes, most conditioners deposit a film on your hair. That's how they work. It's the film that makes it soft and smooth and shiny (with the exception of very few ingredients, like coconut oil). That is true for both drugstore and salon conditioners and styling products. All you have to do is look at the ingredients to see that they are very similar in higher and lower end products. Silicone is fine for your hair - it washes right out with shampoo. So even if you are concerned about build-up, all you have to do is use a clarifying shampoo once or twice a week to clear it up. I know that some people with curly hair prefer to avoid silicone, which is a legit choice - but even if you accidentally use a product containing it, it's easy to shampoo out. If silicone didn't wash off with soap or detergent, most of us would have a thick coating of it on our skin, because it's also an ingredient in a lot of lotions and moisturizers.

Pantene adds more silicone than some other products, because they make a conditioning shampoo. You can read all the specifics of how it works in this post from The Beauty Brains, in which they also answer someone's question about why Pantene isn't sold in salons if it's "so good." The answer, in short, is because they wouldn't make nearly as much money from it as they do now. (Sidenote: I'm really sad that when The Beauty Brains lost their archives, they lost the post in which they collaborated with a stylist who swore she could tell the difference between hair washed with drugstore and salon products. In a blind test she was right less than 50% of the time - which suggests that if she was choosing the "nicer" hair, the drugstore product might have been better. It was so good.)

Anyway, the anti-drugstore spiel that you get from hair stylists and that other people repeat over and over is another version of "it's better because it costs more." Some expensive products are great, and some are crappy; ditto for cheaper stuff like Pantene. Here's an good explanation of why people think cheap things are worse, even though there is little correspondence between cost and value today (h/t Liz, thanks!):


In the end, I also didn't get the haircut I wanted (if I can tuck them behind my ears, they aren't bangs!), and I had to leave to get lunch with some friends, so I couldn't stick around to get it fixed. But the most annoying part was the concern-trolling, nonsensical sales pitch. Experiences like these are why I don't relate much to people who find getting a hair cut relaxing. If you do, I guess I need to go to your stylist!

Thursday, October 22, 2015

How to find a dupe the scientific way (from The Beauty Brains)

The Beauty Brains suggest using the ingredients list of products like mascara to find dupes (step-by-step instructions on their page, using Benefit's They're Real as an example). I've done similar things with skincare products, but admittedly I've never tried it with makeup. It does seem like it would work better with a product like mascara than, say, lipstick or eyeshadow, where there would be more factors to take into account besides ingredients.

Have you searched for dupes this way? Does it work?

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Update: How that John Frieda volume treatment actually works (from The Beauty Brains)

I posted that I'd had good results with the John Frieda 7-Day Volume Treatment a while ago, but I wasn't sure what was in it that made it work. The cosmetic chemists at The Beauty Brains have explained it all for us. It's the polyimide-1 ingredient that does it, if that means anything to you. They spell it all out at the link, so I won't repeat it here. Their conclusions seem to be the same as what I came to empirically: it will create some volume, though not a huge amount, which will last for a few days, and it will probably work better on some hair types than others.

(Note: They say that you need to blow dry after the first application to get it to really work, but I had increased volume when I just air dried as well.)

Friday, April 17, 2015

All About Hyaluronic Acid (from The Beauty Brains)

This is interesting and useful. I have a couple of products that contain hyaluronic acid, and I really like them (like the Paula's Choice serum that I reviewed a while back). I like finding a breakdown of how "miracle" ingredients really work and then being able to decide for myself if they're worth the hype. I knew hyaluronic acid was a humectant, but not much else. I have had problems with products that are high in glycerin (another humectant) actually drying out my skin in winter (the Neutrogena hand lotion, for example), but I haven't noticed that with hyaluronic acid, and I used the serum mentioned above all winter. Overall, it seems like a effective ingredient with some promising science behind it.

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Preservatives are Good, Or: Yes, you do want parabens in your sunscreen

This is a story from last fall, but it's worth the reminder for anyone who might be looking for more "natural" sunscreens - especially for their kids. Last September, Badger recalled about 30,000 tubes of their baby and kids sunscreen, because they were contaminated with bacteria and fungi. Gross. That was apparently because the organic preservatives they contained were not sufficiently effective. They are reformulating those sunscreen lotions and will be putting out a new (hopefully safer) product in 2015.

Here's a good preservatives primer from The Beauty Brains.

Friday, May 16, 2014

Is there any benefit to using sulfate-free shampoo?

Lots of people swear by sulfate-free shampoo for a variety of reasons: it's better for dry hair, it's better for curly hair, it's better for color-treated hair, it's "healthier", etc. According to The Beauty Brains, tests show that sulfate-free shampoos don't make a difference for hair, but if you have very sensitive skin, they might be irritating. (If you've been using regular shampoos all this time with no problems, though, your sensitive skin is probably fine with them). At that link, they also mention products that might actual help your hair color resist fading. Useful!

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Will leaving conditioner on your hair longer make it work better? (from The Beauty Brains)

Apparently not (scroll down). I have to admit this sort of blew my mind. My whole shower routine is built around leaving the conditioner on my hair for the maximum amount of time. But when you think about it, it's pretty obvious. Conditioner doesn't actually absorb into your hair; it just coats it. (Unless it's coconut oil, in which case it needs to stay on for longer than your typical shower.) So the most important thing is that you spread the conditioner evenly throughout your hair (or at least the part you want to condition), not that you let it sit.

Sometimes you just absorb that folk wisdom/marketing shit and don't question it. Oops.

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Why you shouldn't buy products with plastic exfoliating microbeads (from The Beauty Brains)

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.
It's because they are environmental pollutants. The Beauty Brains helpfully note that you can identify these by looking in the ingredients for "polyethylene". I guess I won't be buying that Freeman scrub again. I'm just going to toss what's left, and go back to my usual homemade brown sugar scrub.

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Are you getting enough protection from your spray-on sunscreen?

boopmynose asked:
Thinking out loud here - I'm curious as to spray on sunscreens and their effectivness. I usually keep a range of sunscreens on hand year round (I come from a moley family) and when I'm running errands I lean towards the sprays. I walk/use buses so its easy for me to just spray myself down till I look like a basted turkey fairly quickly instead of worrying about lotions.

Wonder if the measurements equal the same, like I was just spraying into a teaspoon size. Or if more is required. Guess I know what I'm looking up online later today.

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

The EU bans some cosmetics ingredients that the US doesn't. So fucking what?

Refinery29 has another one of those scary articles about how your makeup is going to give you cancer, while all the wholesome Europeans live forever. How outrageous is it that the FDA doesn't prohibit all of the cosmetic ingredients that the EU does?

Monday, June 24, 2013

One good DIY and one bad DIY (from The Beauty Department)

Good: Make your own beach wave texture spray.

Bad: Make your own lash/brow serum. Maybe not so much bad as misleading. Castor oil does not stimulate hair growth. It can condition and, as a result, strengthen your hair so that it doesn't break as easily. If fewer lashes fall off, then they will be (or appear) thicker. But it won't make new ones grow where there weren't any before.

Saturday, June 22, 2013

How to permanently straighten your hair without damaging chemicals (from The Beauty Brains)

For vomohiper on Tumblr. Here you go! I wish there was more information there, and unfortunately my library doesn't have this journal, but maybe someone out there can hook us up?

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Natural ingredients can carry scary "toxins" too (from The Beauty Brains)

Because, guess what, they are in the ground whence those lovely plants grow. That's why there are rules about safe levels of lead, etc. You can't avoid "toxins" entirely. Read more from The Beauty Brains.

Saturday, March 23, 2013

Follow-up to John Frieda Flyaway Tamer review: How (possibly) to get it for 1/16 the price!


Remember how much I liked this product, but that I wished I could figure out what to refill the tube with when I was finished? I recently asked The Beauty Brains what they thought. Their response is here.

If you have any luck finding the product they've identified, let me know! So far, I have only been able to track down the version with the same name but different ingredients. Boo.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

The bullshit of color-adjusting cosmetics (again)

I know I've complained about this in the past, but I found a nice article from The Beauty Brains that explains how cosmetics that claim to adjust to the most flattering possible shade for your complexion actually work. Hint: They don't have tiny computers or cameras or brains in them to figure out what will flatter you. Most of the time it's just the moister you are, the darker they get. It's a fun trick, but don't get too excited. It's not really about you.
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