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Urban Decay's Vice Lipstick in Backtalk, in their Comfort Matte finish, is one of the most popular shades in that huge line. They even made a whole eye and face palette based on it. It's in that dusty pink/mauve/MLBB (my-lips-but-better) family, which is the largest category of lip products in my hoard. Despite its popularity and my personal preference for this type of shade, there's something about Backtalk that's just a little off when I wear it. It's not that it looks bad, exactly, but it also doesn't make my face look better than it did without any lipstick.
I decided to swatch all my lipsticks that are even remotely similar to see if I can pick out any patterns and discern why Backtalk doesn't work for me. And since I was doing that, I figured I might as well post them here for you, in case you want to find/avoid dupes--or in case you can help me answer my question.
Here are the swatches, in no particular order. The first swatch in every photo is always Urban Decay Backtalk.
1. Urban Decay Backtalk
2. Bite Beauty Pepper (Luminous Creme formula)
3. Bite Beauty Matte Crème Lip Crayon in Glacé
4. BareMinerals GEN NUDE Liquid Lipstick in Swag
5. Kat Von D Everlasting Liquid Lipstick in Lovesick
6. Make Up For Ever Artist Rouge Lipstick in Rosewood
7. Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche Lipstick in Fig
So of the lipsticks in this selection, besides Backtalk, the only two I don't really like on myself are the KVD Lovesick and Bite Fig. Lovesick is a little cooler, with more pink/purple, than Backtalk, and Fig is much warmer and peachier. (Fortunately Lovesick is also a sample, because since it does that dried-up butthole thing to my lips, I wouldn't want to be stuck with a whole tube. Also, I don't buy Kat Von D products.) I'm not sure I'm seeing a pattern here yet.
1. Urban Decay Backtalk (It's interesting how Backtalk will look different depending on what other swatches you put it next to. The lighting is the same!)
2. Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche Lipstick in Rhubarb
3. Maybelline Creamy Matte Lipstick in Touch of Spice (reviewed here)
4. NYX Slip Tease Full Color Lip Oil in Lowkey (which is very, very similar to Touch of Spice--more on this lipstick below!)
5. Colourpop Lux Lipstick in Angel City
6. Nars Satin Lip Pencil in Rikugien
7. Wet N Wild Megalast Lipstick in Rose-bud
Everything here is much warmer than Backtalk, and it all works well for me, so maybe that's something. Rhubarb is slightly blah on me, but I'm guessing it would look great on people who like Revlon Sultry, which is similar to Maybelline Touch of Spice but slightly less flattering on me (review/comparison here).
Side note: has anyone ever come across a dupe for Wet N Wild Rose-bud? I love the color, but the Megalast formula always dries out my lips.
1. Urban Decay Backtalk
2. L'Oréal Colour Riche La Lacque Lip Pen in Choco-lacque (reviewed here)
3. Urban Decay Revolution Lipstick in Rapture (discontinued, but available in Vice format)
4. Urban Decay Sheer Revolution Lipstick in Sheer Rapture (discontinued)
5. Revlon Balm Stain in Honey (reviewed here)
6. Tom Ford Lip Color Matte in Pussycat
Pussycat looks closest to Backtalk here, and it's also the one I like least on my face, though slightly better than Backtalk. These two lipsticks are both pretty muted (i.e. they have grey added), so that could be a clue. Rapture looks muted when you consider it alone, but next to Backtalk, it's a bit more saturated.
1. Urban Decay Backtalk
2. Tarte Tarteist Creamy Matte Lip Paint in Birthday Suit (i.e. last year's Sephora birthday gift)
3. LA Girl Matte Lipstick in Snuggle (reviewed here)
4. Burt's Bees Lip Crayon in Sedona Sands
5. Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche Lipstick in Thistle
None of the above is particularly similar to Backtalk, so the fact that most of them work for me isn't especially informative. The exception is Birthday Suit, which is an unflattering beige--I think it's the yellow undertones that set it apart from the superficially similar Snuggle. Come to think of it, though, Thistle is both very muted and pretty cool, and I like it a lot on me. Maybe that's because it's more of a statement corpse-lip, rather than just looking accidentally blah. (I'm wearing it in this Instagram pic, though the lighting isn't great.)
You probably want to see what Backtalk actually looks like on me at this point. (Apologies for the grainy photo.)
Like I said, it's not awful, but a great lipstick will light up your face, and a good lipstick will at least be better than nothing.
I'm not sure what I've learned through this process. I need my MLBB lipsticks to be muted, but not too muted, and more brown than grey, maybe. Or more brown than pink? Thoughts? I have definitely learned that I have way too many similar lipsticks (ok, I already knew that), and that weirdly enough I have never reviewed most of these. Any you'd like to know more about?
I'll tell you more right now about one of them. I recently used Ulta points to pick up a lipstick from one of NYX's 700 or so liquid lipstick lines, a newer one called Slip Tease Full Color Lip Oil. It's full color, sure, but having oil in the name is a bit of a red herring. It's not like YSL Tint-In-Oil or most other products called lip oils. It's less drying than most matte liquid lipsticks, sure, but there's nothing that looks or feels oily about it. (There are a few oils halfway down the ingredients list, but a lot of other things come before them.)
Here is Lowkey on my face:
More flattering, wouldn't you agree, than Backtalk? The rest of my makeup is the same, as is the lighting. Here's a lip swatch:
When you see it all alone, it looks like a rosy pink, but in the swatches above (second set), you can see that it definitely has some brown in it when compared to other lipsticks in the same family. The formula is really lovely. It's slightly moussey and thick enough that you can easily and neatly apply it using just the doe foot (not as thick as the Tarte liquid lipstick, though). It's opaque in one coat, but not so pigmented that it risks getting really messy. The finish is demi-matte. It dries down a bit but not completely, so it retains slip and moisture and feels pretty much like a bullet lipstick--yet it doesn't transfer easily. Wear time is about the same as a decent bullet, so you'll probably have to reapply after a meal. Best of all, it doesn't dry my lips out.
This is one of the nicest lipsticks I've tried recently, and probably the nicest liquid lipstick I've ever used. I'd recommend giving it a try if you see a color you like. That's my one complaint: while I love Lowkey (way to be hip to the new slang, kids), none of the other colors really interests me. There's variety, but something about the selection bores me. Bang Bang and Entice might be ok? I think a terracotta orange would be really great in this formula.
I kind of ordered Lowkey blind (you can never trust Ulta's photos for color accuracy), but it ended up working great. It would be nice if I could work out some kind of rules to predict which lipsticks will work best on me. Do you know what works for you when you see it, or do you have to try everything on like I do?
Saturday, July 14, 2018
Thursday, July 5, 2018
For Dry Eyes Only: Review of IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Full Coverage Anti-Aging Waterproof Concealer
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I have a wandering eye when it comes to makeup, and it usually doesn't do me much good. I have a totally reliable, nearly perfect under-eye concealer in the form of Sephora Gel Serum Concealer (reviewed here), and yet . . .
It Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye [insert long name here] is one of those concealers that comes up whenever people ask for recommendations, alongside things like Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer. So I was tempted. I should have known better, since it claims to be waterproof. Things can usually be waterproof or oil-proof, but not both (which makes perfect sense). I do have pretty watery eyes, so a waterproof concealer isn't a bad idea in theory, but my skin also tends to get oilier and oilier as the day goes on. It's almost always more important for my makeup to be able to withstand my oily skin than to resist water. This concealer just doesn't hold up for me, unfortunately.
It has some great qualities that I'm sure contribute to its popularity. For one thing, it's incredibly pigmented, so that you only need a tiny bit of the thick product to cover the entire under-eye area. For me, this is all it takes for one eye:
It also blends easily and covers well enough, initially. The packaging, a simple squeeze tube with a very narrow dispenser is great--it will limit the amount of air and bacteria that can get in, but also makes it easy to squeeze out the last few specks. Bye Bye Under Eye only comes in six shades. I chose the lightest, called Light (Very Fair). In makeup lingo, "light" and "very fair" are usually two different things, but sure. Here is a swatch compared to a bunch of other concealers to help you decode that label:
From left to right: (1) IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Undereye in Light; (2) Sephora Gel Serum Concealer in Fondant; (3) Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly; (4) Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02; (5) Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil in CIA (discontinued); and (6) Hard Candy Glamoflauge Concealer in Ultra Light.
It Cosmetics Light is closest to Nars Chantilly. I found it to be a good match for my skin tone, fortunately, since the shade options were limited. It's probably a closer match than Sephora Fondant, in fact, though the extra warmth of Fondant means it actually does a better job of canceling out my dark circles. The consistency and pigmentation of Bye Bye Undereye is most similar to the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, but the IT doesn't have that strong floral/powdery fragrance. (By the way, Hard Candy Ultra Light is the lightest concealer I have ever found, so if you have trouble finding something pale enough for you, it's worth a shot.)
On the downside, I found that Bye Bye Under Eye creased really badly on me and highlighted fine lines and flakiness that I didn't even know were there. I tried various application methods with no improvement. The photo below was taken immediately after application, patted on with my finger over well-moisturized but not primed skin. I'm not wearing any other makeup besides eyebrow pencil. (I forgot to take a before photo, but you can see the bare state of my dark circles here or here.)
The coverage is good, but the texture isn't ideal, and it's creased a whole lot. Not a huge deal, maybe, because most concealers crease right after I apply them, and I can usually blend a little more after a few minutes to soften the creasing.
Here it is with the rest of my makeup applied, after a little more light blending with a sponge, and setting with No.7 loose powder (reviewed here).
The texture is worse, and instead of the creases smoothing out, the concealer has basically just lifted out of them. It has also already faded quite a bit just in the amount of time it took me to apply the rest of my makeup. Sigh. (As I said, I tried a few different application/blending/setting methods with the same results.)
Besides the lack of a smooth surface, the other big problem, which I mentioned above, is that the oil in my skin just devours this stuff. By the end of the day, there's very little left, except what was caught by those lines and flakes. Lovely.
The photo above was taken after about eight hours on not a particularly hot or sweaty day. My skin is what you might euphemistically describe as dewy. Even so, my mascara (Tarte Lights, Camera, Lashes) and my eyebrow pencil (Essence Eyebrow Designer Pencil) have stuck around just fine. My dark circles are on major display, though.
To be fair, this is what happens to most concealers on my face. One of the things that impressed me so much about the Sephora Gel Serum (please never discontinue it, please, please, please) was that it was still there at the end of the day. So this problem doesn't necessarily make this concealer worse than all other concealers, just worst than my fave.
Clearly a lot of people out there like this stuff. My guess is that those people do not have oily skin. If you have drier skin and teary eyes, maybe this is great. (Though I would still be concerned that it would highlight flaky skin, to be honest.) But if your skin type is similar to mine, I certainly wouldn't recommend this product. I've already bought another tube of my trusty Sephora concealer, which costs $14 versus IT Cosmetics' $24--though note that the IT tube contains twice as much product, so if you like it and can get through it all before it starts to dry up, it's actually a better value.
If this concealer is your holy grail, I think it would be really helpful for people reading this review if you would comment and let me know what type of skin you have and what you look for in a concealer.
Anyway, lesson learned.
Maybe.
Probably not.
I have a wandering eye when it comes to makeup, and it usually doesn't do me much good. I have a totally reliable, nearly perfect under-eye concealer in the form of Sephora Gel Serum Concealer (reviewed here), and yet . . .
It Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye [insert long name here] is one of those concealers that comes up whenever people ask for recommendations, alongside things like Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer. So I was tempted. I should have known better, since it claims to be waterproof. Things can usually be waterproof or oil-proof, but not both (which makes perfect sense). I do have pretty watery eyes, so a waterproof concealer isn't a bad idea in theory, but my skin also tends to get oilier and oilier as the day goes on. It's almost always more important for my makeup to be able to withstand my oily skin than to resist water. This concealer just doesn't hold up for me, unfortunately.
It has some great qualities that I'm sure contribute to its popularity. For one thing, it's incredibly pigmented, so that you only need a tiny bit of the thick product to cover the entire under-eye area. For me, this is all it takes for one eye:
It also blends easily and covers well enough, initially. The packaging, a simple squeeze tube with a very narrow dispenser is great--it will limit the amount of air and bacteria that can get in, but also makes it easy to squeeze out the last few specks. Bye Bye Under Eye only comes in six shades. I chose the lightest, called Light (Very Fair). In makeup lingo, "light" and "very fair" are usually two different things, but sure. Here is a swatch compared to a bunch of other concealers to help you decode that label:
From left to right: (1) IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Undereye in Light; (2) Sephora Gel Serum Concealer in Fondant; (3) Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly; (4) Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02; (5) Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil in CIA (discontinued); and (6) Hard Candy Glamoflauge Concealer in Ultra Light.
It Cosmetics Light is closest to Nars Chantilly. I found it to be a good match for my skin tone, fortunately, since the shade options were limited. It's probably a closer match than Sephora Fondant, in fact, though the extra warmth of Fondant means it actually does a better job of canceling out my dark circles. The consistency and pigmentation of Bye Bye Undereye is most similar to the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, but the IT doesn't have that strong floral/powdery fragrance. (By the way, Hard Candy Ultra Light is the lightest concealer I have ever found, so if you have trouble finding something pale enough for you, it's worth a shot.)
On the downside, I found that Bye Bye Under Eye creased really badly on me and highlighted fine lines and flakiness that I didn't even know were there. I tried various application methods with no improvement. The photo below was taken immediately after application, patted on with my finger over well-moisturized but not primed skin. I'm not wearing any other makeup besides eyebrow pencil. (I forgot to take a before photo, but you can see the bare state of my dark circles here or here.)
The coverage is good, but the texture isn't ideal, and it's creased a whole lot. Not a huge deal, maybe, because most concealers crease right after I apply them, and I can usually blend a little more after a few minutes to soften the creasing.
Here it is with the rest of my makeup applied, after a little more light blending with a sponge, and setting with No.7 loose powder (reviewed here).
The texture is worse, and instead of the creases smoothing out, the concealer has basically just lifted out of them. It has also already faded quite a bit just in the amount of time it took me to apply the rest of my makeup. Sigh. (As I said, I tried a few different application/blending/setting methods with the same results.)
Besides the lack of a smooth surface, the other big problem, which I mentioned above, is that the oil in my skin just devours this stuff. By the end of the day, there's very little left, except what was caught by those lines and flakes. Lovely.
The photo above was taken after about eight hours on not a particularly hot or sweaty day. My skin is what you might euphemistically describe as dewy. Even so, my mascara (Tarte Lights, Camera, Lashes) and my eyebrow pencil (Essence Eyebrow Designer Pencil) have stuck around just fine. My dark circles are on major display, though.
To be fair, this is what happens to most concealers on my face. One of the things that impressed me so much about the Sephora Gel Serum (please never discontinue it, please, please, please) was that it was still there at the end of the day. So this problem doesn't necessarily make this concealer worse than all other concealers, just worst than my fave.
Clearly a lot of people out there like this stuff. My guess is that those people do not have oily skin. If you have drier skin and teary eyes, maybe this is great. (Though I would still be concerned that it would highlight flaky skin, to be honest.) But if your skin type is similar to mine, I certainly wouldn't recommend this product. I've already bought another tube of my trusty Sephora concealer, which costs $14 versus IT Cosmetics' $24--though note that the IT tube contains twice as much product, so if you like it and can get through it all before it starts to dry up, it's actually a better value.
If this concealer is your holy grail, I think it would be really helpful for people reading this review if you would comment and let me know what type of skin you have and what you look for in a concealer.
Anyway, lesson learned.
Maybe.
Probably not.
Sunday, July 1, 2018
Stuff's on sale
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Happy Canada Day! I'm celebrating by posting about good deals on beauty shit that Canadians will probably not be able to access. Sorry. I hope some day that I will once again be in the land of nearly-free healthcare and inflated makeup prices with you all. Until then, my American friends: here's some consumerism for you.
I've been having some kind of allergic reaction on my eyelids lately, and I'm not sure if it's contact dermatitis caused by a product or if it's environmental. In the meantime, I can't take photos of all the (too many) eyeshadows I've bought recently and have been wanting to review, like the Anastasia Beverly Hill Prism Palette. So while I decide which post further down in my queue to work on, I'm procrastinating by fake online shopping (you know, where you put stuff in your cart and then close the tab) and trying to avoid Twitter (but failing). An excellent use of time. Join me! I'm going to mention an idiosyncratic mix of things that I've used and can recommend and others that I just want.
I bought the aforementioned Anastasia Beverly Hills Prism Palette on sale, but it doesn't seem to be marked down this week. Instead, Subculture is on sale for $21 at Ulta, in case you've been eyeing that one. I've never used it.
Ulta has a bunch of other interesting sales at the moment, and a $3.50 coupon. Their jumbo haircare products are all marked down. That shit lasts forever. Real Techniques brushes are on sale, and I like those. The CoverGirl TruNakes Roses palette is $9 (reviewed here), making it about the same price as Walmart, in case you're not going there. I haven't used the Wet N Wild highlighters, but people seem to like them, and the MegaGlo Palette is marked down to $10 from $15. Revlon's Electric Shock lipsticks look intriguing, but I haven't actually seen swatches of them. Anyone else? They're on sale. I do generally like Revlon lipsticks. Hey, and how about a blue-brown duochrome eyeshadow single from Catrice for $4.50, if you don't want to buy the whole Comfort Zone palette (reviewed here) to get one? That weird jelly highlighter from Almay is also marked down. Has anyone used that thing? I guess it's Almay's attempt to be relevant, and I admit I am sort of curious.
Don't forget to use Ebates for free money. (Details here.)
I'll also remind you that Nordstrom Rack has a beauty section online, where you can sometimes get recently discontinued products for a good price. The Too Face Natural Mattes palette is only $13, for example, and the Chocolate Soleil Bronzer is $10 (old version, I assume?). They also have lots of MAC, Bobbi Brown, NYX, Urban Decay, Bareminerals, Lime Crime, Caudalie, Paula's Choice, etc.
TJ Maxx has beauty online too, and they have some Lipstick Queen, Nars, Clarins, OPI, Boscia, Make Up For Ever, Clé de Peau, Burberry, SK-II, and a bunch of others. And if you buy them online, presumably no one has already stuck their grubby fingers in the product!
Any other good deals out there? Planning to celebrate your country this week (or mourn for it) by indulging in some good, old-fashioned American capitalism?
Happy Canada Day! I'm celebrating by posting about good deals on beauty shit that Canadians will probably not be able to access. Sorry. I hope some day that I will once again be in the land of nearly-free healthcare and inflated makeup prices with you all. Until then, my American friends: here's some consumerism for you.
I've been having some kind of allergic reaction on my eyelids lately, and I'm not sure if it's contact dermatitis caused by a product or if it's environmental. In the meantime, I can't take photos of all the (too many) eyeshadows I've bought recently and have been wanting to review, like the Anastasia Beverly Hill Prism Palette. So while I decide which post further down in my queue to work on, I'm procrastinating by fake online shopping (you know, where you put stuff in your cart and then close the tab) and trying to avoid Twitter (but failing). An excellent use of time. Join me! I'm going to mention an idiosyncratic mix of things that I've used and can recommend and others that I just want.
I bought the aforementioned Anastasia Beverly Hills Prism Palette on sale, but it doesn't seem to be marked down this week. Instead, Subculture is on sale for $21 at Ulta, in case you've been eyeing that one. I've never used it.
Ulta has a bunch of other interesting sales at the moment, and a $3.50 coupon. Their jumbo haircare products are all marked down. That shit lasts forever. Real Techniques brushes are on sale, and I like those. The CoverGirl TruNakes Roses palette is $9 (reviewed here), making it about the same price as Walmart, in case you're not going there. I haven't used the Wet N Wild highlighters, but people seem to like them, and the MegaGlo Palette is marked down to $10 from $15. Revlon's Electric Shock lipsticks look intriguing, but I haven't actually seen swatches of them. Anyone else? They're on sale. I do generally like Revlon lipsticks. Hey, and how about a blue-brown duochrome eyeshadow single from Catrice for $4.50, if you don't want to buy the whole Comfort Zone palette (reviewed here) to get one? That weird jelly highlighter from Almay is also marked down. Has anyone used that thing? I guess it's Almay's attempt to be relevant, and I admit I am sort of curious.
Don't forget to use Ebates for free money. (Details here.)
I'll also remind you that Nordstrom Rack has a beauty section online, where you can sometimes get recently discontinued products for a good price. The Too Face Natural Mattes palette is only $13, for example, and the Chocolate Soleil Bronzer is $10 (old version, I assume?). They also have lots of MAC, Bobbi Brown, NYX, Urban Decay, Bareminerals, Lime Crime, Caudalie, Paula's Choice, etc.
TJ Maxx has beauty online too, and they have some Lipstick Queen, Nars, Clarins, OPI, Boscia, Make Up For Ever, Clé de Peau, Burberry, SK-II, and a bunch of others. And if you buy them online, presumably no one has already stuck their grubby fingers in the product!
Any other good deals out there? Planning to celebrate your country this week (or mourn for it) by indulging in some good, old-fashioned American capitalism?
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