I seem to become more middle of the road in my approach to ingredients the more I learn about them. I still don't want anyone trying to trick me by putting a bunch of shit in a product that isn't going to do me any good, but I'm not so paranoid that I think a little bit of fragrance is going to turn me into an old hag, necessarily, anymore.
Alcohol is one of those ingredients, like fragrance or preservatives, that gets demonized in skin care (though the people worried about fragrance and the people worried about preservatives tend to belong to separate camps). A lot of skin care products contain alcohol. But does it actually serve a useful purpose, or is it just in there to improve the product's texture while ultimately producing damaging results?
Here are some different perspectives from sources that I think are generally smart and reliable (i.e. not the EWG):
Alcohol is always bad (except fatty alcohols).
Alcohol is fine.
Alcohol can serve a purpose in small quantities.
At this point, I am not bothered by a little alcohol somewhere near the second half of the ingredients list. However, if you're trying to sell me a fucking $95 serum that has SD alcohol as the second ingredient (after water and followed by boring ingredients like glycerin and silicone), I'm going to have to pass, thanks anyway.
What's your take on alcohol on your face, not just in your glass?
It depends on the kind of alcohol. Some fatty alcohols are perfectly safe. Others not so much. But I only learned that recently.
ReplyDeleteYes, there are alcohols and then there are alcohols!
DeleteI was thinking of delving into the alcohol thing in the Shiseido post but didn't because I personally don't care. There are some interesting internet bitch fights about it though! So long as the product as a whole is safe and does what it's really supposed to do/provide some sort of benefit in my routine, I'm all for it.
ReplyDeleteThey all seem to agree at least, that alcohol lets other ingredients penetrate into your skin better, which is what the Shiseido claims to do, so they're not lying. But according to Paula's Choice, it does that by KILLING YOUR SKIN. I don't even know anymore.
DeleteAnd I happened to be writing this post when I came across yours, so it made sense to me to link it. It was a helpful and fair review.
DeleteOoh thanks for linking to my blogpost! I'm aware of both futurederm and Paula's views too, and I think that while we all agree on the basic science of the effect of alcohol on skin (can help penetration of ingredients but comes at the cost of disrupting the skins barrier function to some extent), we disagree on whether the trade off is worth it. Our views are all along a spectrum. Paula's view is that it is not worth it at all, futurederm thinks it is worth it, and I'm somewhere in between (might be worth it in small amounts). Ultimately the decision is the consumer's to make, and each consumer may come to different conclusions. (On a practical level it might just boil down to things like product availability and convenience of purchasing the product. For example I'm located in Asia, and the bulk of our brightening and whitening products have alcohol in them, so it can be tough looking for things like a whitening serum with no alcohol, for example, unless I order online from niche brands etc. That's where I'm more inclined to make the trade off, just because it's harder to find, than say, a face lotion or moisturizer, because tons of alcohol-free alternatives exist.) just my $0.02, haha.
ReplyDeleteI think that's a balanced, reasonable approach. That's why I like your blog so much in general. You always carefully consider all the angles and don't buy into hype. A very refreshing and valuable perspective - and rare these days.
DeleteThis was a helpful post! I've read a lot of Paula's reviews and was confused. There is a product that is loved dearly by beauty editors and celebrities alike, Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist that has alcohol as the second ingredient (after water). (https://www.birchbox.com/shop/jurlique-rosewater-balancing-mist) I ended up making my own, cheaper, alcohol free version by combining Thayer's Rose Petal Witch Hazel toner with mallow root and calendula extracts. BTW, I highly recommend you do this. It's kind of an amazing toner, it smells amazing, fresh and light. I'll spray it on my face to soften the powdery look on my face after makeup, I'll spray it on my face in the morning if I'm not going to be washing my face for a while. I'll spray it on my face in the middle of the day because it smells like roses and it makes me happy. I already have friends requesting some as xmas gifts.
ReplyDeleteI think when it comes to alcohol, I agree with you. I'll avoid it if I can, but if there is a small amount that seems to serve a purpose in a product that seems otherwise top notch, I'm fine with it.
You know, Paula disapproved of witch hazel too - I think because it contains alcohol! But that sounds like a refreshing DIY. Unfortunately I'm too flinchy for facial mists, most of the time.
DeleteI think I'm going to come down on the NO side. I woke up this morning with dry patches. And the only thing I can think of that would cause it is the brand new serum I recently started using. Which contains alcohol as the second ingredient. I think maybe in small doses it's fine,but for my skin I'm mostly going to pass.
ReplyDeleteYep, that sounds like a bad sign!
DeleteHey, love your blog! I'm pretty new to paying serious attention to skin care/products/etc., but I just recently ditched a drug store Neutrogena cleanser after reading Paula's Choice's view on alcohol in toners especially. Plus I had begun to suspect that it was drying out my skin. Soo... I guess I don't have too much to add here, except that since I'm still learning about the issue I appreciated the post and perspectives here.
ReplyDelete